Welt and method of making



Patented Dec. 18, 1928.

vireo STATES PATENT OFFICE.

HARRY LYON, F ianoon rom MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR r0 JOHN A. BARBOUR, on

fBnooKLmn, MASSACHUSETTS, Ann runner YIBARBOUR, or, QUINCYQMASSACHU-sn'rrs, DOING BUSINESS AS A COPARTNERSHII' UNDER THENAME AND STYLE onBARBOUR. WELTING, COMPANY, or BBOCKTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

WELT AND ,rirnrnon or MAKING.

Application filed August 14, 1924. Serial No. 731,932.

Heretofore welting has commonly been made of blank strip material ofsubstantiallyrectangular cross section, a groove beingcut longitudinallythereof on its lower or flesh face, when of leather, to receive theinseam stitches and the inner upper edge on the grain side ofthe-leather'being removed on a bevel. lVhen in position in the shoetheinseam stitches emerge from the upper 1 edge of the "weltsubstantially at the marginof this beveled edge, or in other words, atthe apex between the beveled edge and the grain'face of the leather.vThe groovingand beveling operations remove stock from the strip, thisstock being waste,*and the-blank strip must be of the full over-allwidthof the finished welting. T

According to the present invention Substantially the same crosssectional contour and over-all width'for the completed welting isproduced but without the necessity of actually removing material fromthe strip, causing waste, and without any condensing or otherundesirable effect on the material where either the inseam or outseamstitches pass therethrough. 1

' Due to the manner of making, the finlshed welt is of greater widththan that of the blank and as there is .no waste a narrower blank stripthan heretofore used produces finished welting of the same effectivewidth so that a material saving in stock is ,obtained.

'For a more complete understanding of this invention reference may behadto "the accompanying drawings'in which 'Figure 1 is a cross section ofthe blank strip. 7 v

Figure 2 is a view similar to Figure l, but showing one mannerflofcutting .the

blank. I 1

Figure 3 shows the cut blank bent to form the completed welting. Q

Figure 4} is a view similar to Figure 2, but showing a different way inwhich the blankmay be cut. j

' Figure 5 shows the completed welting when the blank is out as shown inFigure l. Figure 6 represents a cross section through a portion of ashoe-showing the novel welting incorporated therein.

A blank strlp substantially rectangular in 'cr'oss sec'tion assho'wni-at'1 in Figure 1 is v out inwardly from its lower face 2 as shown at 3(Figure 2), where leather is employed this being the flesh facezof theblank. This cut'or incision from the flesh face extends substantiallyperpendicular to this face partly through the blank and from its innerend a cut-is made substantially parallel ,to

, thetop and bottom-faces, as atl, toward the adjacent edge 5 of theblank. Thisprovides a portion of the blank extending throughout itslength boundedby the incisions 3' and 4,, a portion of the lower face 2and the .main body of the blank. This portion is.

edge 5 which is partially severed from the then bent backwardly andoutwardly. to open up the incisions 3 and 4-- as shown in'Figure 8. Theedge 5 then takes an inclined position at an obtuse angle to theupperface of the strip as shown in this figure, and corresponds in positionto the beveled portion at 'the'inner edge of the usual welt on its upperor grain face, while'the'portions at opposite sides of-the incisions 3-and lare separated f sufficiently by said outward displacement of thepartly severed portionof the stock to form agroove 6 having a bottomfaceof "substantial width stitches may-lie.

in which the inseam beveled face, formed by the edge 5 of the blank,originally presents a section of the material perpendicular to its:upper and 'lower" faces rather than a section inclined to thisperpendicularas in-the welting'cut with waste as heretofore practiced.

This mannerofv cutting the welting .pro-

videsa groove having abaseof ample width for receiving and burying theinseam stitches and alsolafiords sufiicient room for the'needle-to passwithout detrimental effect when the stitches are being made.

also the beveled portion, while in the present form thewi dth of theblank is only that of the uncut 'upperg'fa'ce as. from the The severalstitches extend, as shown by the dotted line 2-2 in Figure:3, from. thebase of this groove 6.-and emerge at the top face of the point bito thepointfo of1Figure3,tthei'dis so i It willbe noted that the I tunes fromthe point 0 to the point (i representing an increase in the over-allwidth of the welting as constructed according to this invention,produced by the bending outwardly of the partially severed. portionthereof. By this construction, therefore, it is seen that the overallwidth of the finished welting is greater than the width of the blankfrom which it is made, while as heretofore constructed the two widthshave been the same.

In place of the two rectangularly ar-' ranged incisions 3 and 4 a singleincision 1O curved to substantially a quadrant may be substituted asshown in Figures 4 and 5. The lower portion of this incision is substantially perpendicular to the lower face 2 of the blank, while the inneredge of this incision is substantially parallel thereto, conforming inthis respect to the remote edges of the incisions 3 and 4t.

The portion '11 of the blank is thus partially severed by the incision10 and it is then bent outwardly away from'the remaining portion of theblank to form the groove 12 and the beveled. edge 5. The inseam stitcheslie in the groove 12 and extend. in the .general direction of the dottedline 0'7"" emerging from the upper face of the welting at the apexbetween the inclined side 5 and the top face 7 in the same manner as inthe form shown in Figure 3.

In Figure 6 is shown a section through a portion of a shoe showingalength of the finished welt-ing incorporated therein, the inseamstitches 15 passing through the insole rib 16, the lining 17 the upper18 and the .welt 19 substantially in the same manner as when the welthaving the stitch receiving groove and the beveled portion out therefromis employed. The welt, when on a shoe is indistinguishable from thatheretofore used and represents a considerable saving in stock over thatrequired by the former method of construction. Furthermore the materialis not condensed or otherwise mistreated, where the stitches are passedtherethrough, to cause interference in any way with the passage of theneedle or the holding strength of the stitches.

Having thus described certain embodiments of this invention it should beevident to those skilled in the art that various modifications andchanges may be made therein 7 without departing from its spirit or scopeas defined by the appended. claims.

I claim:

1. VVelting comprising a strip of substanti ally rectangular crosssection incised with out removal of material lon itudinally in one facenear its inner edge, the incision be ing substantially perpendicular tosaid one face adjacent thereto and remote from that face beingsubstantially parallel thereto.

2. VVelting comprising: a strip of substantially rectangular crosssection incised longitudinally from one face inwardly and then towardone edge, the portion thus partly severed from the blank being bentbackwardly and outwardly fromsaid face to form a stitch-receiving grooveat the incision and a beveled adjacent edge;

3. lVelting comprising a leather strip of substantially rectangularcross section incised longitudinally adjacent. to one edge from theflesh side thereof and extending toward said edge to partially sever aportion from the strip, said partially severed portion being bent backfrom the flesh side to open the incision to form a stitch-receivinggroove and to cause the outer edge of said portion previouslysubstantially perpendicu: lar to the sides of said strip ,to make anobtuse angle to the grain side of the strip and increase the overallwidth of said; strip.

4. The method offorming welting which comprises cutting and bending ablank strip of rectangular cross section to form a welt of greater widththan said strip provided with a beveled edge and a stitch-receivinggroove having a base of substantial width.

5. The method of forming welting which comprises cutting inwardly andlaterally from the lower face of a blank strip of substantiallyrectangular cross section longitudinally thereof adjacent to one edge topartially sever a marginal portion and bending said marginal portion ina manner to open up the cut to form a stitch-receiving groove, lg Widenthe strip, and to form a beveled ec 'e.

= 6. VVeltmg for bootsand shoes compr1s1ng a strip of grain leatherhaving, in its flesh side near its inner edge, a groove of requisitedepth with a bottom face of substantial Width for receiving stitching,and a bevel at the inner edge of the strip formed from an outwarddisplacement of said inner edge and of the stock which originally laydown in said groove over said bottom face.

7. VVelting for boots and shoes comprising a strip of grain leatherhaving a longitudinal incision near its inner edge extending from theflesh side'inwardly and then turning toward said inner edge to partlysever stock from the flesh side, said incision being opened to form astitch-receiving groove by raising and permanently displacing outwardlythestock of the-flesh side beveled welting for boots and shoes whichincludes longitudinally ineising the flesh side ot a grain leather weltstrip near ts inner edge by a slit which extends nwardly from said fleshside and then turns toward a said inner edge, and then opening saidincision to form a stitch-receivinggroove and displac ng the marginalstock outwardly and toward the grain side ,to set said inner edgeoblique to said grain side.

10. Veltmg comprising a strip of material having a beveled inner edge,consisting of the original inner edge of the strip, the bevel beingdetermined by displacing material partially severed by a longitudinalcut entering the strip at right angles to its upper and lower surfacesand then, by a change of direction, turning toward said inner edge. Intestimony whereof I have aflixed my signature. I

' HARRY LYON.

